The Winter Jewels of Wilmington: A Guide to Growing Hellebores in the Southeast

If your plants constantly struggle, your lawn looks tired, or water just sits on top of the ground after it rains, the real problem probably isn’t your plants—it’s your soil. In most residential and commercial landscapes, soil has been compacted by construction, stripped of organic matter, and cut off from the natural processes that keep it healthy. The good news: you don’t have to rip everything out and start over. With a few practical changes, you can bring your soil back to life and grow stronger, healthier plants. Why Soil Health Matters for Your Landscape Healthy soil is more than just “dirt.” It’s a living ecosystem made up of minerals, organic matter, fungi, bacteria, insects, and plant roots all working together. When this underground community is thriving, you get: Stronger, deeper root systems Better drought resistance Less erosion and runoff Fewer pest and disease problems Healthier trees, shrubs, gardens, and lawns When soil is compacted or lifeless, plants survive rather than thrive. Let’s change that. Feed the Soil With Compost, Not Just the Plants What compost does: Compost is decomposed organic matter—basically, concentrated life for your soil. It: Feeds beneficial microbes Improves soil structure (crumbly instead of hard and clumpy) Releases nutrients in a form plants can actually use Helps soil hold moisture while still draining well How to use it: Top-dress garden beds, trees, and shrubs with a thin layer of compost (½–1 inch) and gently rake it in or leave it under your mulch. Try liquid compost products (often called “compost tea”) for lawns or established beds when you don’t want to disturb the soil surface. Don’t stress about timing. Compost can be applied almost any time of year, and it’s very hard to overdo when you’re using quality material. Relieve Soil Compaction so Roots Can Breathe Compacted soil is one of the main reasons plants decline in urban and suburban landscapes. When soil is compressed, there is less space for air and water, both of which roots and soil organisms need to survive. What you can do: Avoid heavy traffic near trees and planting beds. Repeated foot traffic, vehicles, and equipment compact the soil. For lawns, use core aeration to pull small plugs out of the turf, then top-dress with compost so it can fall into the holes. Around trees and shrubs, consider professional decompaction. Advanced methods, such as air spading, use compressed air to loosen the soil without cutting roots. This creates space for air, water, and compost to move back into the root zone. Benefits you’ll notice : Faster recovery of stressed trees and plants Less standing water and erosion Rainwater soaking in instead of running off hard surfaces Protect Bare Soil With Wood Chip Mulch Bare soil is a red flag. It heats up, erodes, dries out quickly, and loses organic matter. Why arborist wood chips are ideal: They protect the soil surface from sun, wind, and heavy rain. They slowly break down, feeding soil organisms over time. They allow air and water to move through, unlike plastic or fabric “weed barriers.” They recycle local organic material right back into your landscape. How to apply mulch correctly: Spread 2–3 inches of wood chips around trees, shrubs, and in planting beds. Keep mulch 3–6 inches away from tree trunks and plant stems to avoid rot and pest issues. Extend mulch beds as far as practical; more covered soil means less compaction and better moisture control. Leave the Leaves Where You Can Many landscapes treat fallen leaves as waste. In nature, they’re one of the most important resources for soil health. Why leaves are valuable: They act as free mulch, protecting soil and helping retain moisture. They break down into organic matter, feeding soil life. They provide crucial habitat and overwintering sites for beneficial insects and other small wildlife. Rake only where necessary for safety or access, paths, sidewalks, entryways, and tight lawn areas. Leave leaves under trees, shrubs, and in naturalized areas as a mulch layer. If the layer is too thick on lawn areas, mulch them with a mower so they break down faster instead of smothering the grass. This simple habit saves time, reduces yard waste, and keeps organic matter on your property where it can do the most good. Rethink Synthetic Fertilizers Many common fertilizers are salt-based and designed to give a quick shot of nutrients. While they can green things up fast, they often harm the very soil biology that plants depend on. Potential downsides of heavy synthetic fertilizer use: Increased soil salinity (too much “salt”) Disrupted beneficial microbial communities Shallow, weak root systems that depend on constant reapplication A better long-term strategy Build fertility with compost, wood chip mulch, and leaf litter instead of relying on chemical boosts. If you do use fertilizer, choose slow-release, soil-friendly products and follow label rates carefully. Healthy soil reduces the need for chemical inputs over time, saving you money and making your landscape more resilient. Plant More (Especially Native) Plants Plants and soil life support each other. Roots hold soil in place, create channels for water, and leak small amounts of sugars and compounds that feed beneficial microbes. How additional plants help your soil: Living roots stabilize soil and reduce erosion. Dense plantings shade the soil, helping it stay cool and moist. A variety of species supports a wider range of insects and microbes. Tips for planting smarter Use native plants wherever possible. They’re adapted to local conditions and support local wildlife and pollinators. Replace thin, struggling turf, especially in shade, with groundcovers, shrubs, or perennials. Grass rarely thrives under established trees. Aim for at least ~70% plant coverage in landscape beds to minimize bare ground and compaction. Over time, areas with diverse, well-chosen plants tend to build better soil naturally. Reduce “Hidden” Chemical and Environmental Stressors Even if you’re adding compost and mulching, some common yard practices can quietly undermine soil health. Ready to Build Healthier Soil? Improving soil doesn’t have to be complicated. Start with a few simple steps—add compost, protect bare soil, plant more, and reduce unnecessary chemicals—and you’ll be amazed at how your landscape responds.

Whether you need expert coaching, professional plant diagnostics, or help designing a native, pollinator, or vegetable garden, our team is here to guide you. Having problems with your houseplants? We can help with that too!

A Wilmington Gardener’s Guide to Post-Snow Recovery

Effective Pest Management Solutions for Your Garden

chill hours the importance for fruit trees to break dormancy

Winter Gardening in Wilmington, NC: A Guide to the "Off-Season" While much of the country is buried under snow, winter in Wilmington, North Carolina, is a unique and productive time for gardeners. Our coastal climate, characterized by mild temperatures and occasional cold snaps, allows for a year-round gardening cycle. Instead of hanging up your trowel, winter is the perfect season to prepare, plant, and maintain your landscape so it thrives when the spring humidity returns. Focus on Soil Health and Preparation Winter is the best time to focus on the foundation of your garden: the soil. Because the pace of growth slows down, you can take the time to test your soil and amend it without disturbing active summer crops. One of the most beneficial tasks you can do is to add a fresh layer of mulch. In Wilmington, pine straw and shredded hardwood are popular choices. Mulching now helps regulate soil temperature during our erratic "seesaw" winter weather and suppresses early spring weeds. Additionally, consider starting a compost pile or turning your existing one; the cooler months are great for breaking down fallen oak leaves and kitchen scraps to create "black gold" for your spring beds. Pruning and Maintenance Many of the coastal favorites, such as crepe myrtles and ornamental grasses, benefit from winter pruning. For deciduous trees and shrubs, pruning while they are dormant makes it easier to see the structure of the plant and reduces stress. However, be careful with your timing. Avoid pruning spring-blooming plants like azaleas, camellias, or hydrangeas right now, as you might accidentally cut off this year’s flower buds. Instead, focus on removing "the three Ds": dead, damaged, or diseased wood. This is also an excellent time to clean and sharpen your tools, ensuring they are ready for the heavy lifting of spring. What to Plant Right Now Wilmington sits in USDA Hardiness Zone 8b, which means our winters are mild enough to support a variety of cool-season plants. If you want to keep your yard colorful, winter is the season for pansies, violas, and snapdragons. These hardy annuals can withstand a light frost and will keep your containers looking vibrant. For the edible garden, winter is prime time for leafy greens and root vegetables. You can successfully grow kale, collards, spinach, and carrots throughout the Wilmington winter. It is also the ideal window for planting "bare-root" trees and shrubs. Planting them now allows the root systems to establish themselves in the cool, moist soil before the intense heat of a Cape Fear summer arrives. Planning for the Spring Finally, use the shorter days to dream and document. Take photos of your yard in its dormant state to identify gaps where you might want to add evergreen structure or winter-blooming plants like Sasanqua Camellias. Browse seed catalogs and sketch out your plans for the spring vegetable patch. Gardening in Wilmington during the winter isn't about "closing up shop"—it's about setting the stage for the spectacular growth that defines our coastal spring. By putting in a little effort now, you’ll be miles ahead when the azaleas begin to bloom in March.